-Elisabeth Berthon-
-Elisabeth Berthon-
THE DETAILS THAT MATTER
Design and production of a tailor-made jacket
From October 5 to 10, 2025
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Teacher's presentation
Teacher's presentation
A graduate of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Schools in Paris, Elisabeth Berthon has been a professional felter since 2005. She lives and works in Lyon, where she founded Lola Bastille and co-founded Morse Felt Studio. His work has been exhibited in France, the United States, Italy, Spain, Switzerland and Japan. She is represented by the Galerie Françoise Besson in Lyon.
Speaker for HS_Projets and the International Festival of Extraordinary Textiles, she also teaches in several art and textile and costume design schools (ENSAD, ENSATT). A member of L’Atelier – Laines d’Europe and the IFA, she shares her know-how through national and international training, provided in French and English.
Course overview
During this training you will learn how to design and make a jacket that can be easily worn on a daily basis. You will make a pattern adapted to the garment in one piece and therefore reversible, then you will construct the template for the jacket, using the principle of homothety (reduction/enlargement)
You will lay the wool in the required directions to obtain the desired effects depending on the style of the jacket determined. Once felted, you will learn how to shape your jacket on a mannequin, with steam, in order to give it an impeccable final shape, like a so-called "couture" jacket.
General objectives
A unique jacket is designed for a unique body inhabited by a woman who enjoys feeling unique when wearing it, because it fits her perfectly, because it seems "made for her". A felt jacket is a wearable sculpture.
This workshop is designed for people already experienced in basic wool felt making techniques. It will allow them to design and create a jacket, in seamless, reversible wool felt, designed in harmony with their silhouette, while using certain techniques from sewing codes.
Educational objectives of this course
Become familiar with the architecture of clothing according to the body it covers, with the aim of designing and creating a "second skin" garment, a comfortable and personal ally.
Take measurements on a living model.
Master the patterning of a seamless jacket made from a single piece, in wool felt according to the shrinkage coefficient of the sample selected.
Know the different shapes of jackets and the details that make them up: classic and/or contemporary jacket style, sleeve shapes, collars, pockets.
Master the application of wool to obtain the desired effects.
Know how to intervene during finishing touches, to perfect the style of an impeccable jacket.
Being able to respond to an order for a custom-made jacket, a unique piece.
A booklet will be provided containing the theoretical concepts covered during the course, as well as photos illustrating the multiple possibilities of the details that matter. I strongly recommend organize/plan the necessary and sufficient time, back at the workshop, to redo a similar or different project, which will allow you to settle well what you have learned during this internship.
Detailed program
Day 1 : The design of the jacket and its template
Morning: Opening round with a short illustrated explanatory speech: jacket style - Choice of wool.
Definition of the project for each student. Drawing of the project. (drawing talent is not essential).
Pattern making: construction techniques adapted to felt clothing. Taking measurements in pairs.
Trace of the pattern to the measurements of each student.
Afternoon: Layout of the template, collar + back + sleeves, and two in front.
Afternoon: Layout of the template, collar + back + sleeves, and two in front.
Pockets - in pairs using the principle of homothety.
Pockets - in pairs using the principle of homothety.
Day 2 : Making the jacket - the back
Day 2 : Making the jacket - the back
Morning: Full back + sleeve back: Start Laying the wool. 4 layers.
Morning: Full back + sleeve back: Start Laying the wool. 4 layers.
Afternoon: Full back + sleeve back: End Laying the wool. 4 layers Wet-Massage.
Afternoon: Full back + sleeve back: End Laying the wool. 4 layers Wet-Massage.
Day 3 : Making the jacket - First front
Day 3 : Making the jacket - First front
Morning: Start laying wool - 4 layers.
Morning: Start laying wool - 4 layers.
Afternoon: End of laying the wool.
Afternoon: End of laying the wool.
Day 4 : Making the jacket - Second in front
Day 4 : Making the jacket - Second in front
Morning: Start laying wool - 4 layers.
Morning: Start laying wool - 4 layers.
Afternoon: End of wool application - 4 layers - Wet pocket - Massage.
Afternoon: End of wool application - 4 layers - Wet pocket - Massage.
Day 5 : The felt jacket - Fulling - Felting
Day 5 : The felt jacket - Fulling - Felting
Morning: Fulling alone or in pairs.
Morning: Fulling alone or in pairs.
Afternoon: Felting then complete rinsing.
Afternoon: Felting then complete rinsing.
Day 6 : The finishes of the jacket
Day 6 : The finishes of the jacket
Morning and afternoon: Placed on a mannequin, using hot steam (iron or steamer) the jacket will take the predefined stylish shape, through appropriate manual work.
At this stage, the felt behaves a bit like clay, we can shape it and make it take the desired shapes, if beforehand, we have anticipated these shapes by defining them on the template, then by different directions of laying the layers of wool. This step requires patience and attention to detail.
Monitoring of execution and evaluation methods
Attendance sheets.
Learning is supported by practical demonstrations, one-on-one consultations and illustrated help and explanations.
Training evaluation forms.
Materials available for students
Each participant will benefit from a suitable individual workstation, with individual felting table adjustable in height, small felting equipment
Possibility of purchasing raw materials (wool, textiles, threads) on site if necessary and depending on available stocks.
Large light and bright workshop, abundant library specializing in textile art and colors.
Level of prior knowledge and prerequisites
It is necessary to know and be familiar with the basic techniques of making hand felt. This training is not suitable for beginner felters. Knowledge of basic manual felting techniques: 2D and 3D (continuous layer) is required.
Personal Financing Rate
6-day training course (42 hours): €840.
Maximum number of trainees: 6
If your tax residence is in France:
Tuition fees may be covered by training organizations (OPCO, Vivea, Afdas, FAFCEA, France Travail, etc.) depending on your status and eligibility. Contact us for personalized advice and a quote at contact@feutreformationfrance.fr
Accommodation
Our residence is the ideal place to sleep on site throughout your training. If you would like to know more, write to us at contact@feutreformationfrance.fr
Before the course
Carry out research on the style of jacket you want to design and make. An off-season jacket or for winter?
Choose the shape of the jacket: length, fullness: straight, or with a loose back or on the contrary fitted, the marked waist….
Choose the shape of the collar: shawl, suit, collarless, military…
Decide if the fronts will cross, be edge to edge, single-breasted, double-breasted, snaps, belt...
Choose to wear slit pockets, patch pockets, with flaps….
Choose the sleeves: straight, raglan, with cuffs…
Once registration has been validated, each participant will receive a digital version of an iconography allowing them to begin the preparatory work to be done before arriving at the workshop: research of the chosen style and sampling of the wools selected for the project (4 thin, medium, or thick layers), calculation of the shrinkage coefficient for the selected project.
Bring printed or digital images or/and designs of the desired jacket, choices of pocket details, collars, sleeves are welcome.
You will be offered a list of wool suppliers. But you may be able to obtain wool on site, depending on stock availability.
Define the choice of wool: local, French, preferably or European.
Noire du Velay, Bizet, Bergshaf, Ouessant, Merino wool are all suitable, and I use them a lot in making my clothes. A combination of one or two of these wool varieties is also accepted. For example a blend of Yak and Merino or Thones and Alpaca wool. (See material list for quantities.)
Please note that shrinkage samples will need to be made before the course. The teacher is used to working in 4 layers, from fine to normal depending on the wool and the project.
If you intend to use a wool blend, or nuno felt, please use that same blend + textile in case of nuno felt in your sample.
If you would like to make several samples to experiment with different proportions in your wool + textile blends, to see how the colors and fibers behave together, please do so.
Each participant is invited to bring to the course a jacket they love and usually wear, which they would like to reproduce or from which they would like to draw inspiration.
Material to bring
You are invited to bring your own washed, carded or combed wool. If you have opted for a mixture, it is best to bring it prepared. Possibility of carding on site within the limit of 2 kilos of clean and washed wool. About one and a half kilos of carded or combed wool.
You are invited to bring your own washed, carded or combed wool. If you have opted for a mixture, it is best to bring it prepared. Possibility of carding on site within the limit of 2 kilos of clean and washed wool. About one and a half kilos of carded or combed wool.
If the project is in nuno felt: Fabric suitable for nuno felt = 3 meters in 140 cm width, or 5 meters in 90 cm.
Wicks of fleece or decorative fibers inserted into the desired project.
A large old cotton or linen or mixed sheet, dedicated to felt work. (double bed).
The soap of your choice.
Kraft wrapping paper + tape.
3-Meters of foam/plastic underlay for the template.
Foam plastic 2 to 3 mm thick, the type used under floating floors – the type most often used to make templates; minimum 4m x 1m.
3 meters of bubble wrap.
A PVC pipe of 1.80 meters - diameter 8/10/12 cm + string or elastics.
Bath towel.
1 pair of paper scissors.
1 pair of fabric/fiber scissors.
A notepad and something to write and/or draw.
Permanent marker.
Large one meter ruler, square and parrot.
A calculator.
A seamstress tape measure.
Steam iron or steam iron.
Camera.
If you are traveling from afar, please check with the training center as it may be possible to purchase some or most of the bulky materials directly on site.
If you are traveling from afar, please check with the training center as it may be possible to purchase some or most of the bulky materials directly on site.
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